Chele La Pass

Chele La is where the road from Paro climbs over the ridge into the Haa Valley. La means pass in Dzongkha, and this one sits on the Bondey–Haa road about 35 kilometres from Paro and 26 kilometres from Haa. It is often described as the highest point on Bhutan’s road network. The most widely quoted height is 3,988 metres, though some sources give 3,810 metres. Either way, it is the highest most visitors get in a vehicle, and on a clear morning it gives you the snow peaks on the Tibetan border without a trek.

Most people see it in one of two ways: as a stop on the drive to Haa, or as a half-day trip from Paro with a walk down to the nunnery of Kila Goemba.

The road up from Paro

The road leaves the main Paro–Thimphu highway at Bondey, just below Paro town, and climbs well over 1,500 metres in 35 kilometres. It was built in the 1990s and is narrow and steep, with tight hairpins and long drops. The drive up takes about 1–1.5 hours. You leave the farmhouses of the valley behind and climb through forest towards the open, windswept top. Look back as you climb for views down the length of the Paro valley.

What you see from the top

• The mountains. On a clear day Jomolhari, the great peak on the border with Tibet, and Jichu Drake stand out to the north-west. Clouds tend to build as the day goes on, so the earlier you arrive the better your chance.
• Two valleys. Paro lies behind you on one side and Haa opens out on the other.
• Prayer flags. The pass is strung with lines of coloured flags and stands of tall white ones, which families raise for people who have died.
• Birds and flowers. Chele La is listed as an Important Bird Area. Himalayan monal and blood pheasant are among the birds seen around the pass, and in spring the slopes are full of rhododendrons. Walkers sometimes find the blue poppy in summer.
• A film set. An area near the pass was used for Khyentse Norbu’s film Travellers and Magicians, with an old logging camp turned into the crew’s base.

Walking from the pass to Kila Goemba

The best walk from Chele La goes down through forest to Kila Goemba, a small nunnery built into the cliffs on the Paro side of the pass. The Paro Dzongkhag’s history of Kila Goenpa (opens in a new tab) traces the temple, first called Kila Dechen Yangtse, to two saintly brothers in the 16th century, and the cave where their uncle meditated can still be seen. Today it is a retreat centre where nuns spend long periods in meditation, so keep voices low near the retreat houses.

The walk down takes about an hour to an hour and a half, and longer on the way back up at this altitude. Allow two to three hours for the round trip, including time at the nunnery. It is a moderate walk. The path is clear, but the air is thin. Dress for a temple visit (shoulders to knees covered) and go with your guide.

Over the pass into the Haa Valley

From the top the road drops about 26 kilometres into Haa, which takes about an hour. Paro to Haa is about 2–2.5 hours in all with a stop at the pass. Haa gets far fewer visitors than Paro or Thimphu, and the drive over Chele La is part of its appeal. Our Haa Valley page covers what to see there, and Quiet valleys most visitors miss has more ideas for getting away from the busier routes.

Cold, altitude and road conditions

At close to 4,000 metres the pass is cold and usually windy, even in bright sun. Bring a warm jacket, a hat and gloves whatever the season. Our packing checklist has the full list.

The altitude is the other thing to respect. A short stop is fine for most people, but walk slowly, drink water and don’t plan the drive for the day you land at Paro. If you are prone to altitude problems, read our safety and health guide. In winter, snow and ice can make the road dangerous. Your driver and guide will decide on the day whether it is safe to go up.

When to go

October and November bring the clearest skies and the best chance of seeing Jomolhari. April and May are the months for rhododendrons, with more haze on the peaks. From June to September the monsoon often hides the view, though the flowers are at their best. December to February can give sharp, clear days between snowfalls. For a season-by-season picture, see Bhutan weather by region and the best time to visit Bhutan.

Tips for the day

• Leave Paro early. Clouds tend to close in over the peaks by late morning.
• The road has many bends, so take something for motion sickness if you need it.
• Facilities at the top are minimal. Bring water and a snack, or ask your guide to pack a picnic lunch; the pass is a popular picnic spot.
• Combine it with the rest of the valley: Chele La in the morning, and Paro Dzong or the town in the afternoon. The Paro page has the full list of sights.