Jomolhari Base Camp Trek

You fly into Paro, at about 2,200 m. Two nights here give your body time to adjust before the trek goes much higher, so the first day stays easy.

In the afternoon, visit Kyichu Lhakhang, a few minutes' drive north of town. It is one of the oldest temples in Bhutan, traditionally dated to 659, and its Jowo Shakyamuni statue is revered as highly as the Jowo in Lhasa. Later, walk across Nyamai Zam, the covered wooden bridge over the Paro Chhu, to Paro Dzong, the fortress-monastery consecrated in 1646. Late afternoon gives the best light on its walls.

Today is the acclimatisation hike, the trail to Tiger's Nest, whose temples are fixed to a cliff about 900 m above the valley at 3,120 m. From the car park at about 2,600 m the path climbs through pine forest hung with prayer flags to a cafeteria, then on to a viewpoint level with the monastery. The last stretch drops down stone steps to a waterfall and climbs again to the gate, the steepest part of the day. Allow 5 to 6 hours in all. Treat it as a rehearsal for the trek: a steady pace, water, a warm layer and shoes with real grip. Bags and cameras are left at the gate.

The trek starts at Drukgyel Dzong, at the head of the Paro valley. Built in 1649 to mark victory over Tibetan invaders, it burned in 1951 and stood as a ruin for decades; its rebuilding with traditional methods was finished in December 2022. From here you go on foot, with horses carrying the tents, the kitchen and your main bags, while you carry a day pack. Your trekking guide sets the pace and the cook looks after every meal.

The first stage follows the Paro Chhu upstream past Shana, through pine and rhododendron forest, to camp at Thangthangkha. Nights in camp are cold in every season, so bring warm layers.

The second stage leads on up the valley towards Jomolhari, the great peak on the border with Tibet, through yak pastures and past the settlements of yak herders.

Base camp is at Jangothang, beneath the mountain's 7,326 m summit.

Today is a rest day at base camp, and an important one. The camp is high, and a quiet day, or a short walk above camp if you feel well, helps your body adjust before the passes. On a clear morning Jomolhari fills the view.

Drink plenty of water and tell your guide early if you feel unwell.

The second half of the trek crosses the high passes, and the first of them is Nyile La, on the way from Jangothang to Lingshi. This is the hardest walking of the route, with long climbs in thin air and wide views from the top. Take it slowly.

Beyond the pass the trail comes down to camp at Lingshi, the first of the remote villages on the way towards Thimphu.

The second pass, Yeli La, is the highest point of the trek. The day runs from Lingshi over the pass to camp at Shodu.

Like Nyile La, it is a long climb in thin air with wide views from the top, so take it slowly.

From Shodu the trail turns towards Thimphu, descending through forest along the Thimphu Chhu to camp at Barshong. This is the last night in camp.

The last stretch of trail brings you down to the road head, where the trek ends. Say goodbye to the cook and the crew who have looked after you and the horses for six nights, then drive on to Thimphu, Bhutan's capital and largest town, at about 2,320 m.

After a week in camp, a hot shower and a proper bed are the main event of the afternoon. If you want to stretch your legs in the evening, walk to the National Memorial Chorten in the middle of town, a white chorten with a golden spire built in 1974 in memory of the Third King. Older residents walk clockwise around it and turn its big prayer wheels all day, and joining the circuit at an easy pace is a gentle way back into town life.

Today you drive from Thimphu to Paro International Airport, about 1.5 hours by road, for your flight home.

If there is time before you leave, go up to Buddha Dordenma, the gilded bronze Buddha on the hill of Kuensel Phodrang above the southern end of the valley, about 15 to 20 minutes by road from the centre. It was completed in 2015 and holds 125,000 smaller Buddhas inside. The terrace looks out over the whole valley, a good place to take in the capital once more before the airport.