Glimpse of Bhutan

On a clear day the flight into Paro passes close to the high Himalaya before it drops into the valley. Your guide meets you at Paro International Airport, Bhutan's only airport for international flights, for the drive to Thimphu, about 1.5 hours.

On the way, stop at Tachog Lhakhang, where an iron chain bridge hung with prayer flags crosses the Paro Chhu to the temple.

In Thimphu, visit Tashichho Dzong at the northern end of town. It holds the throne room, the King's offices and several ministries, and in summer the central monk body, so the people crossing the courtyard with you might be monks, clerks or a minister. Visitors are let in at set times, and late afternoon gives the best light on the whitewashed walls and golden roofs. Cover shoulders and knees, and keep something long-sleeved in your bag.

In the evening, stroll through the centre of Thimphu with your guide.

Start early at Buddha Dordenma, when the terrace is quiet and the light on the gold is soft. The gilded bronze Buddha, more than 50 metres tall, sits on the hill of Kuensel Phodrang above the southern end of the valley and holds 125,000 smaller Buddhas, many of them lining the shrine hall inside.

Come down to the National Memorial Chorten, built in 1974 in memory of the Third King, where older residents walk clockwise around it all day and turn its big prayer wheels. Seeing the new Buddha and the old chorten on the same morning shows two sides of faith in the city.

After the Folk Heritage Museum, drive up to Motithang, where the takin, Bhutan's national animal, lives in a fenced stretch of forest. It began as a small zoo; when the Fourth King had the animals released, the takins wandered the streets of Thimphu, so they were given this preserve instead.

End at the Changlimithang ground to watch archery, the national sport, and try a bow yourself if it can be arranged.

Leave Thimphu early, when the mountains are most often clear. About 45 minutes to an hour out of town is Dochu La, at about 3,100 m, with the 108 Druk Wangyal chortens built in three tiers for the Bhutanese soldiers who died in 2003. Walk around them clockwise and, on a clear morning, look for Gangkar Puensum, Bhutan's highest mountain. The pass is cold and windy, so keep a warm layer handy.

The road then drops almost 1,900 m through forest to the warm Punakha valley. Leave the car at Sopsokha and walk about 20 minutes through the rice fields to Chimi Lhakhang, the small temple of Drukpa Kunley, the Divine Madman. Couples hoping for a child come here for a blessing, and visitors can ask for one too.

Then cross the covered bridge over the Mo Chhu and climb the steep wooden steps into Punakha Dzong, built in 1637–38 where the Pho Chhu and Mo Chhu meet. It was the seat of government until 1955 and has three courtyards instead of the usual two. Allow 1.5–2 hours.

The longest drive of the trip heads back west, out of the Punakha valley and over Dochu La once more. The weather on the pass changes fast, so if the peaks were hidden on the way out, look again. On the way, stop with your guide to hoist a string of prayer flags and spread merit.

In Paro, drive up to Ta Dzong, the round watchtower built in 1649 above Rinpung Dzong, which has housed the National Museum since 1968. Its thangkas, masks, bronzes, old weapons and stamps make the dzong's chapels easier to read.

Then walk down to Rinpung Dzong, Paro's fortress-monastery, consecrated in 1646, with the district offices on one side and the monk body on the other. Look at the painted galleries, the five-storey central tower and the carved window frames. Leave on foot across Nyamai Zam, the covered wooden bridge over the Paro Chhu. It is downhill all the way back to town, in the best of the late-afternoon light.

Today is the walk to Paro Taktsang, the Tiger's Nest, fixed to a cliff about 900 metres above the valley. Guru Rinpoche is said to have meditated in its cave in the 8th century; the temples were first built in 1692 and rebuilt after a fire in 1998. Start early to climb in the shade. The trail is about 6.4 km there and back, with about 520 m of climbing:

• Pine forest up to the cafeteria, 1–2 hours. Ponies can be hired for this stretch, uphill only.
• On to a ledge level with the monastery for the classic view.
• Stone steps down to a bridge beside a waterfall and up to the gate, the steepest part.

Bags, phones and cameras stay at the gate. Allow 5–6 hours in all and wear shoes with real grip. On the way back to town, stop at Kyichu Lhakhang, one of the oldest temples in Bhutan, traditionally dated to 659.

In the evening there is a traditional farmhouse dinner and the hot stone bath that comes with the tour.

Your last morning in Bhutan. After breakfast your guide and driver take you to Paro International Airport for your onward flight.

If your flight leaves later in the day, there may be time first for a last walk through Paro town. Your guide will fit it around your check-in. On a clear day, look out of the window as you climb away from the valley for a last view of the mountains. Tashi delek.