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What to eat in Bhutan

From ema datshi, chillies stewed in local cheese, to momos, red rice and salty butter tea: what to try in Bhutan.

FoodBhutan Tour Itinerary, 11001 Thimphu

In Bhutan, chillies aren’t a seasoning — they’re a vegetable. Here’s what to try.

Chillies dry almost everywhere: on rooftops, hanging from windows and spread out on the ground. They’re eaten red or green, fleshy or slender, dried, powdered and pickled.

Red chillies laid out to dry on a hillside in Bhutan in late October. Photo: Chuck Moravec, CC BY 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons (opens in a new tab)

Ema datshi

The national dish: green or red chillies stewed in a sauce of local cheese. Served with red rice at almost every meal.

The usual ingredients are split chillies, cheese, garlic, onion, tomato and oil. Some cooks keep it thick, others make it soupier. Yeewong, a Bhutanese women’s and lifestyle magazine, cooks three versions in this short video.

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Three ways to cook ema datshi, the chilli and cheese stew.

Kewa and shamu datshi

The same cheesy sauce with potatoes (kewa) or mushrooms (shamu) — a gentler start for spice-shy travellers.

Momos

Steamed dumplings filled with cheese, vegetables or meat, dipped in fiery ezay chilli sauce.

Steamed momos with a spoonful of chilli sauce at a lunch in Thimphu. Photo: Nabin K. Sapkota, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons (opens in a new tab)

Red rice and buckwheat

Bhutan’s nutty red rice grows in the Paro valley. In Bumthang, try puta (buckwheat noodles) and khuli (buckwheat pancakes).

Tour

Bumthang Heartland Journey

10 days · from $2,150 per person

Suja

Salty butter tea, offered to every guest — a warm welcome on a cold mountain morning.

All off the beaten path tours

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